Adding structure to a wedding dress for a curvier body is absolutely possible, but it depends on the dress’s design, fabric, and construction. From my experience in bridal alterations, the goal is to enhance support while maintaining comfort and a flattering silhouette. Whether the dress needs a built-in corset, boning, or additional layers, there are several ways to provide the structure necessary to achieve a perfect fit. Let’s explore the best methods and factors to consider when making these alterations.
Methods for Adding Structure to a Wedding Dress
1. Adding Boning
Boning is one of the most effective ways to enhance the support and shape of a wedding dress. This method involves inserting flexible yet firm strips—often made of plastic or steel—into the bodice for reinforcement.
- Interior Boning: If the dress lacks internal structure, boning can be added inside the lining to provide additional support without affecting the external appearance.
- Reinforcing Existing Boning: If the dress already has boning but is not offering enough structure, extra panels or firmer materials can be added.
- External Boning: Visible boning can create a corset effect, defining the waist and offering a pronounced hourglass shape.
2. Incorporating a Built-In Corset
A built-in corset can significantly enhance the structure of a wedding dress by providing both lift and shape. This involves:
- Installing a Lace-Up Back: Replacing a zipper with a lace-up corset allows for adjustable support and a customized fit.
- Adding an Internal Waist Stay: A waist stay helps to distribute the weight of the dress evenly and prevents slipping.
- Strengthening Inner Construction: This can be done by sewing structured layers into the bodice, such as power mesh or additional interfacing, to give the dress a firmer foundation.
3. Adjusting the Lining
Sometimes, dresses with soft or stretchy linings may need an additional lining layer made from firmer fabric. A structured lining helps smooth out the silhouette while giving better support.
4. Enhancing the Skirt Structure
While bodices require the most reinforcement, structured skirts can also assist in achieving the desired shape.
- Adding a Petticoat: A structured petticoat can enhance volume and balance proportions.
- Strengthening the Hem: Adding a horsehair braid at the hem can provide better shape and prevent the fabric from collapsing.
Factors to Consider Before Altering the Structure
1. Fabric Type
The fabric’s flexibility will determine which methods can be used. While boning works well with satin or mikado, softer fabrics like chiffon may require alternative support techniques.
2. Original Construction
If the dress already has some built-in structure, modifications will need to complement the existing design rather than contradict it.
3. Comfort and Mobility
Added structure should not compromise comfort. Materials like soft power mesh or lightweight boning can provide support without making the dress feel rigid.
4. Dress Closure Type
If the dress has a zipper, switching to a lace-up back can offer more adjustability and better contouring support for curvier brides.
5. Timeline for Alterations
Structural changes often require significant alterations, meaning additional fittings may be necessary. Brides should plan accordingly to allow enough time for adjustments.
Real Case: Adding Structure for a Better Fit
A recent bride came to us with a strapless gown made from a soft crepe fabric. While the dress was beautiful, it didn’t offer much support through the bodice, and she felt it wasn’t holding her shape the way she wanted. The original construction had minimal boning and a thin lining, which wasn’t ideal for her curvier frame.
We started by checking the internal structure and confirmed there was enough space and seam allowance to work with. We added flexible boning into the lining—positioned along the side seams and princess lines—for improved support without creating stiffness. To keep the fit secure, we also built in a waist stay and reinforced the zipper area to reduce movement and prevent sagging. Because the dress had no built-in cups, we added light, contoured support to lift the bust naturally without changing the neckline.
The bride came in for multiple fittings so we could test movement and comfort. During each fitting, we made slight refinements to the placement of the boning and adjusted the internal lining to follow her shape more closely. The final result was a dress that hugged her comfortably, stayed in place, and gave her the clean, structured look she wanted—without losing the soft flow of the fabric.
Every dress requires a different approach when adding structure. Some need internal support only, while others benefit from skirt shaping or closure adjustments. Over the years, we’ve worked with everything from lightweight chiffon gowns to fully beaded dresses, always adapting the process based on the fabric, body shape, and how the dress is meant to move and feel.
Book your initial consultation and let us evaluate your dress in person. We’ll walk you through the best structural solutions for your gown—whether it’s adding a built-in corset, reinforcing the bodice, or reshaping the skirt—so you feel secure, supported, and confident on your wedding day.
